Rome

Jonathan Ray wrote an article recently on a visit with his wife to Rome; he saw all the well known tourist attractions and also enjoyed a few (if not many) glasses of wine and ate in some good restaurants.
When my wife and I visited Rome for three or four days we too saw the usual tourist attractions.
But what I remember most was one day walking from one side of Rome to the other seeing all the famous fountains as we went.
Then I got hungry and said "Looks like a cafe up that side street - let's try it."
Well, it was off the beaten track, and the cafe was a small affair, a few tables, men drinking wine at the bar, the usual set up for small bars/cafes. I was given a menu, didn't read Italian so couldn't understand it and then found that no one there spoke any English. It was, in fact, so off the beaten track as to be somewhere only Italians visited.
I pointed to what I recognised, Spaghetti Bolognese, ordered two portions by raising two fingers (hoping the gesture was not misinterpreted), and ordered half a carafe of wine.
However, the waitres obviously did not understand "half a carafe" and brought two full carafes.
When we fell out of the cafe, paying a small amount for a delightful meal, we strolled or staggered back to the hotel.
Better than seeing all those tourist sights!