Sunday 19 October 2008

Tossa del Mar

A long time back we had a holiday in Tossa del Mar on the Costa Brava. Not much of a place I thought at first but lively, plenty going on there especially in the evenings. Swim in the clear water in the day and go to a restaurant in the evening: a few drinks, something Spanish to eat, a few more drinks then.... well, a few more drinks.
Across the street from the restaurant was a bar with a few tables and a floor for dancing. A lively but not wild place, no lager louts in those days, a sort of middle-class respectable crowd seemed to gather there. Among them was a group of five or six men, not young, not old, that in between age when, if they were married, they were "settled", and if they weren't they were ready to meet "someone nice", or maybe not so nice.
One of them was a little older than the others, tall, well dressed, handsome with a shock of blonde hair, weighty but, you could see by the way he danced, quite lithe and athletic. He was a real charmer of the ladies, he danced well, talked a lot which seemed to amuse his partners...
What brought this scene back to mind was listening to the Alan Tichmarsh programme, "Memories for You", this evening; he played "Someone to Watch over me" the Gershwin number sung by Ella Fitzgerald. Which brought back the memory that at the bar across the street the music they mostly played over the speakers were records of Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra.
It was very pleasant sitting there, my wife and I, watching the goings on in the bar and on the dance floor.
Then suddenly, every evening, the lights would be turned off and a sort of luminous glow would light the place - I think it might have been ultra violet rays. This had the effect of lighting only those parts of the clothing that, I guessed, had been washed in detergent, so that the collars and shirts could be seen moving about though you couldn't see the persons in them. But you could always pick out one of them - the guy I mentioned, the tall, good-looking one, the charmer: he was the only one who must have washed not only his shirt but his hair as well in detergent because there he was, his cuffs showing white at the end of his black jacket, his shirt collar white, and above it, no head, just this mop of persil-white hair.
Incidentally, there's something else I remember about Tossa del Mar: it has a superb art gallery of hundreds (it seemed to me) of paintings and drawings by Salvador Dali. Even those who hate his work I'm sure would be impressed with this collection; it demonstrates what a fantastic craftsman he was - if, maybe, not much else.

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